Shaping Squeezable Sensations: The Need for Kester Wax K-82P

Creating stable, squeezable anhydrous systems comes with a unique set of formulating challenges. The key to tackling these challenges is leveraging ingredients that increase performance with a range of other ingredients. Kester Wax K-82P is that “team captain” plasticizer. In combination with structurant waxes and emollient oils, Kester Wax K-82P provides system stability, while promoting the right gel formation to keep formulas including lip glosses and gels flowing from the tube smoothly.

Squeezable anhydrous systems must exit the tube at a rate that makes it a pleasure to squeeze—and they must have a break that matches the product’s intended use. And while that is easy to say, getting the formula right requires a precise combination of ingredients at the right ratios.

To hit the “sweet spot” for squeezability, the right structure is crucial (and different depending on the packaging). Structure can be measured using a penetrometer. Different measurements correspond to different formula structures and types. The chart below shows optimum values for squeezables:

The gel chart below presents the opportunity to predict how much wax is needed to create a system with a specific hardness / penetration. The chart is specific to Synthetic Wax (a very efficient structurant), Beeswax and Rice Bran Wax (849) (two moderate structurants), and Kester Wax K-82P (a plasticizer), in caprylic triglyceride (CCT) as the oil medium.

One key takeaway from this chart is that structurants and plasticizers work synergistically. Too little structuring wax (2-5%) causes instability and textural problems, too much plascticizing wax (30-35%) may be cost prohibitive and may create sensory issues as well.

The best option is to use a combination of structuring waxes (5-10%) to strengthen the gel network but counter the hardness with Kester Wax K-82P at the recommended level of 5-25% for a stable squeezable product. The percentages will vary depending on the other waxes in the system and the overall structure and texture your product range requires.

When you are looking for fun and function, squeezable lip balms and lip glosses are the go-to products. The playful texture gives the lip a glow up that is thoroughly on trend.

Formula #: 5/23-858/154-4

This sample formula offers a squeezable, anhydrous system that uses traditional ingredients. It is a vegan formulation, protecting lips with a soothing texture that spreads easily and doesn’t feel greasy. With the added advantage of a substantial percentage of natural ingredients, labeling remains on-trend.

Formula #: 5/22-421/849/154-19

Lip gloss always puts the “fun” in functional. And the Kester Wax K-82P means it stays that way. This formulation incorporates natural waxes and oils to give just the right texture, gloss, and spreadability. The combination gives lips sleek color in a spreadable gloss that leaves them soft and feeling pleasantly non-greasy.

The benefits of using the right plasticizer in anhydrous formulations are demonstrated in gel structure and stability over use and time. Kester Wax K-82P is uniquely formulated to regulate formula texture, and is particularly effective in making gels, jellies, and squeezables. If you would like more information about creating or improving anhydrous systems, please contact us to make Koster Keunen part of your formulation team.