Koster Keunen Proves the Top 7 Wax Myths FALSE!
Myth #1 – All Waxes Function the Same
FALSE. Waxes are a diverse class of organic compounds. They generally build viscosity in o/w emulsions as part of the oil phase. However, the rate at which they build viscosity can vary considerably and is dependent on at least two factors: wax chemistry and emulsion properties.
FALSE. Waxes are a diverse class of organic compounds. They generally build viscosity in o/w emulsions as part of the oil phase. However, the rate at which they build viscosity can vary considerably and is dependent on at least two factors: wax chemistry and emulsion properties.
Myth #2 – Waxes Behave the Same in All Systems
FALSE. Most waxes thicken and structure oils by building stable gel networks. Scientific data shows that gel hardness is usually proportional to wax percentage. However, there are many nuances and exceptions. For example, the viscosity of the oil affects the rate of thickening, as seen in chart B.
Myth #3 – All Waxes Structure
FALSE. Many waxes are excellent structuring agents while others do not structure or thicken at all. For example in chart C, increasing Kester Wax K-24 had no effect on lip balm hardness, but changed the textural properties. Increasing Kester Wax K-60P softened the system and increased creaminess.
Myth #4 – Waxes Clog Pores
FALSE. Many waxes are known to be non-comedogenic and non-irritant. To the right is the comedogenicity and irritancy data of well-known waxes.
*A comedogenic rating of 0-1 signifies no increase in keratosis.
Myth #5 – Waxes Make Sticky Emulsions
FALSE. Waxes are perfectly suited for skin care applications, as they contribute to formula functionality and sensoriality, offering a wide variety of textures when formulated into an emulsion and applied to the skin.
Myth #6 – Waxes Have No Skin Benefits
FALSE. From a functional standpoint, waxes are film formers that contribute to water retention by the stratum corneum, which is why they are widely used in cosmetic and OTC drug applications.
FALSE. From a functional standpoint, waxes are film formers that contribute to water retention by the stratum corneum, which is why they are widely used in cosmetic and OTC drug applications.
Myth #7 – Waxes Are on “NO” Lists
FALSE. Numerous waxes are natural in origin and go through minimal processing. Waxes are accepted as natural by most certifying bodies and “clean beauty” standards. Waxes can also be sustainable and ethically sourced, like Beeswax, Carnauba and Candelilla.
