What Is A Plasticizer?
In personal care, it is an ingredient used to reduce crystallization and brittleness. Plasticizers are also used to create and promote durability, plasticity, and flexibility.
Why Use A Plasticizer?
Plasticizers are multifunctional tools that will support all types of formulation. They will give the formula both consistency and stability. They also create creamy textures in high wax content formulas. Finally, they can fix a myriad of formulation challenges.
Plasticizers are the answer to issues in problematic systems. They can fix graininess that occurs when solids migrate and agglomerate. They stop spontaneous crystallization in formulas with high percentages of butters, otherwise known as “seeding”. They can fix thermal stability issues by increasing melt point, without affecting the overall texture.
They will also add consistency to formulas. Chemists can add a plasticizer to systems for more control in scale up processing. They can also reduce stability issues caused by incorrect liquid to wax ratios, and they give compatibility to systems that require it.
Eliminate The Issues!
By building a plasticizer into a formulation, chemists can reduce or eliminate a multitude of issues before they start.
Formula Issues Solved With Plasticizers
Bloom
Brittleness
Crystal Formation
Flaking
Graininess
Seeding
Structure Issues
Sweating
Syneresis
Improve The Following With Plasticizers
Stability
Color Distribution
Durability
Melt Point
Film Forming
Flexibility
Payoff
Flowability
Plasticity
Cushion
Film Thickening
Creaminess
Kester Wax K-82P
Wax No. 154S
Kester Wax K-82P is a pliable polyester with a melt point range of 70-85°C. Its unique, flexible properties suppress crystallization while offering stability with a high melt point.
Kester Wax K-82P will raise the melt point of your system without creating structure or hardness. This chemistry can add creaminess and consistency to all types of systems. By varying the percentage in the formula you can create a multitude of different textures. By adding Kester Wax K-82P into anhydrous systems, formulators can maintain their chosen texture over time.
Formulating Tips For Kester Wax K-82P
Start with 1%. Many formula challenges are fixed when as little as 0.5% is added to the system. When adding Kester Wax K-82P into a formula to fix an issue, remove liquids instead of thickeners, waxes or structuring aids. In emulsions, add it to the oil
Attributes
In All Systems
- Film forming
- Film thickening
- Increases melt point
- Improve thermal stability
- Reduce flaking
- Better color distribution
- Stops seeding
In Stick Formulations
(Lipstick, Eyeliner, Pencils, Multi-Use Sticks)
- Flexibility
- Bloom
- Creaminess
- Durability
- Increase pay-off
- Improve film forming
In Anhydrous Systems
- Eliminate sweating & syneresis
- Add creaminess
- Remove graininess
- Maintain consistency & homogeneity
- Make smooth gels
- Increase pay-off
In Emulsions
- Increase stability
- Eliminate weeping & syneresis
- Increase SPF via film forming in sunscreens
- Increase film thickening in sunscreens
- Increase film forming in color cosmetics
INCI Name
C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate
Applications
- Color Cosmetics
- Skin Care
- Hair Care
- SPF Products
Supplied Form
Solid Slab
Suggest Use Levels
- Sticks: 1-5%
- Emulsions: 1-5%
- Anhydrous & Balms: 1-10%
- Flowable/Soft Anhydrous systems: 1-15%
Kester Wax K-60P
Wax No. 484B
Kester Wax K-60P is a paste like, plasticizing ester with a melt point range of 50-70°C. It is a natural, NPA approved product derived from castor oil. K-60P is ideal for creating creamier textures while increasing the stability of your product.
Formulating Tips For Kester Wax K-60P
Kester Wax K-60P is designed for natural products, but will work in any system. Start with 3%, but be aware that percentages will depend on the system and the desired effect. In anhydrous balms it promotes both softness and stability. In stick systems it helps with bloom and syneresis issues. Kester Wax K-60P could add more structure and thickening versus Kester K-82P in some systems.
Attributes
In Natural Systems
- Plasticizing
- Reduce flaking
- Better color distribution
- Texturizing
In Stick Formulations
(Lipstick, Eyeliner, Pencils, Multi-Use Sticks)
- Flexibility
- Create creamy texture
- Stability
- Reduced Sweating
- Increase pay-off
In Anhydrous Systems
- Reduce sweating
- Create creamy texture
- Stop graininess
- Give consistency
- Soft and stable
In Hair Care
- Natural fixative in emulsions
- Adds creamy texture
INCI Name
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Applications
- Naturals
- Color Cosmetics
- Anhydrous Balms
- Hair Care
Form Delivery
Hard Paste
Suggest Use Levels
- Hair Care: 1-10%
- Sticks: 1-5%
- Emulsions: 1-5%
- Anhydrous & Balms: 1-10%
- Flowable/Soft Anhydrous systems: 1-15%