Brochures Archive - Koster Keunen

The Hair Playbook

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The
Hair
Playbook

Hair care is having its moment; not quietly, but boldly, and with serious staying power. What was once a routine category is now an open space for innovation, storytelling, and sensorial luxury. Across the globe, the market is projected to climb from $96.9 billion in 2025 to $132.8 billion by 2035, with the real acceleration happening in the premium segment. Brands are raising the bar with sophisticated packaging, elevated textures, and formulas tailored to every hair type and routine. Hair fragrance is emerging as a new category, with sometimes purely perfumed, other times blended with shine enhancers or conditioning to offer consumers a final, luxurious step in their regimen. Scalp care is expanding fast, with treatments that borrow from skincare and focus on barrier repair, detox, and overall scalp wellness. Meanwhile, silicone-free systems are one of the fastest-growing movements, as consumers shift toward cleaner, lighter, and more natural-looking results without sacrificing performance. Youth and teen-focused lines are on the rise too, with

MARKET INSIGHTS & TREND-DRIVEN
FORMULAS FOR THE FUTURE

MARKET INSIGHTS & TREND-DRIVEN FORMULAS FOR THE FUTURE

By Jessica Dynda

vibrant packaging and intuitive products designed to evolve with age and build early brand loyalty. There’s also a noticeable rise in rice and jojoba-based formulations. These natural ingredients are used to boost strength, shine, and the overall look of healthy but now reimagined in modern formats. The message is clear: hair care is no longer background, it’s the headline. Clean, premium, multifunctional, and beautiful, this category is redefining itself with purpose and polish.

To meet this evolving market with intention and imagination, Koster Keunen is introducing six new hair care formulations that align directly with these global trends. Each formula has been developed as a flexible chassis: high-performance, on-trend, and thoughtfully designed to support further customization or go straight to market. Whether you’re inspired by the strengthening and shineboosting power of natural waxes, the luxurious touch of hair fragrance, or the clean performance of silicone-free systems, these bases give you a starting point. With the right developmental eye, each one becomes a launchpad for brand-owned innovation and exciting formulas that only you could bring to life. We’re here to provide the tools; the vision is yours. These are your blank slates.

Feather Hold Styling Cream

For soft structure without stiffness, Feather Hold Styling Cream delivers a natural, flexible hold with just the right touch of control. Built on Kostol ApiFree (our PEG-free alternative to PEG-8 Beeswax) this formula offers a clean-label fixative with low shine and a movable, lived-in texture. Universally adaptable across hair types, it’s the perfect chassis for everything from sleek sophistication to effortless, undone styles. A true “any look, any day” base for brands ready to own their styling space

Deluxe Cream Pomade

Sustainable Bayberry Wax and […]

SynKos M-1063

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SYNKOS M-1063

THE SCIENCE OF WAX, WITHOUT THE WEIGHT OF PETROLEUM

At Koster Keunen, we believe in evolving cosmetic wax technology through thoughtful innovation and responsible chemistry. SynKos™ M-1063 is our latest advancement in the SynKos series—engineered specifically to replace microcrystalline wax in personal care. Designed without petroleum, BHT, or PAHs, M-1063 delivers functional equivalency and comparable texture in standard formulations—without compromising performance.

Where traditional microcrystalline waxes are derived from fossil sources, SynKos M-1063 offers a cleaner, more sustainable option while meeting the technical demands of emulsions, lip products, and anhydrous systems

WHY CHOOSE SYNKOS™ M-1063?

SynKos Waxes are used as gelling agents, thickeners, viscosity modifiers, and barriers. They are also used to modify hardness, slip and melting point. These products have compatibility with all cosmetic systems, including the following: vegetable oils, esters, and low viscosity fluids like cyclomethicone and isododecane. Look for our gel data on the following cosmetic fluids to get the gel that is best for each system.

For brands removing petrochemical ingredients

For R&D teams needing microcrystalline-like behavior with a clean INCI

For companies focused on sustainability and safety without losing performance

Request A Sample

To request a wax sample please click HERE.

Request Information

To obtain further details on this program, use information in your marketing story, or ask other questions, email us HERE.

FORMULATION GUIDELINES

SynKos M-1063 is used as a thickener, viscosity modifier and barrier. It is compatible with all cosmetic systems, including vegetable oils, esters and low viscosity fluids like cyclomethicone and isododecane. In addition, SynKos M-1063 offers a non-petroleum INCI and chemistry pathway, delivering a high-performance alternative to microcrystalline wax for today’s more sustainable formulation goals.

REGULATORY

SynKos M-1063 was developed to meet the growing demand for globally compliant ingredients without sacrificing performance. Its regulatory profile provides formulators with confidence across international markets.

INCI Name: Synthetic Wax
Manufactured: Watertown, Connecticut, USA
Does Not Contain: BHT, PAHs, or Heavy Metals

REACH-compliant, polymer-exempt

Not classified as a mineral hydrocarbon

PRODUCT BENEFITS

Functional Match for Microcrystalline Wax
Similar hardness, texture, and sensory profile in emulsions, anhydrous formulas, and color cosmetics.

Clean Formulation Advantage
Free from petroleum, PAHs, BHT, and heavy metals—ideal for clean beauty and global regulatory compliance.

Flexible Chemistry
Not a structuring wax—acts as a waxy emollient and rheology modifier. Can be blended with other waxes to fine-tune formula properties.

Made in the USA
Responsibly manufactured in Watertown, Connecticut, under stringent quality control.

Formulators report virtually no measurable or textural differences.

SynKos M-1063 may be used as a direct substitute in many formulas.

PERFORMANCE COMPARISON

SynKos M-1063 has been tested as a direct one-to-one replacement for microcrystalline wax* in a variety of personal care formulations. In both existing systems and newly developed formulas, full substitution with M-1063 resulted in stable, high-performing products. The chart below highlights the minor differences observed, with comparable texture and functionality across all […]

Kester Wax K-24 – Solid To Liquid In A Blink

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Kester Wax K-24 – Solid To Liquid In A Blink

Kester Wax K-24 is a versatile emollient serves as a non-traditional wax ester, remaining solid at room temperature yet exhibiting performance characteristics akin to liquid esters. Its unique properties make it highly compatible with most cosmetic ingredients, offering formulators a valuable tool in creating innovative personal care products.

Key Features and Benefits

Emollient
Melting Texture
Slip Agent
Silicone Alternative
Reduces Greasiness
Noncomedogenic Tested: Follicular Biopsy (3rd Party)
Nonirritant Tested: Follicular Biopsy (3rd Party)
Reduces TEWL

Request A Sample

To request a wax sample please click HERE.

Request Information

To obtain further details on this program, use information in your marketing story, or ask other questions, email us HERE.

Clean Beauty & Regulatory Information

Kester Wax K-24 aligns seamlessly with the principles of clean beauty. This palm derived ester contributes to the production of RSPO certified palm oil* and supports natural and sustainable product development. Kester Wax K-24 has an ISO 16128 natural origins index of 1. Its compatibility with natural, clean beauty, and vegan formulations makes it an ideal choice for brands committed to transparency and environmental responsibility.

Product Characteristics

INCI Name: Lauryl Laurate

Typical Usage Levels: 1-50%
Melt Point: 25° C
Form: Paste
Package: 20 kg Pails

Application

Kester Wax K-24 is a highly compatible and versatile ester that can be used in all areas of formulation for leave-on and wash-off applications.

Skin Care

Emulsions & Lotions
Baby Care
Face Care
Lip Care
(AP/DEO)
Sticks & Balms
Ointments
Massage Oils
Sunscreens

Hair Care

Conditioners
Shampoos
Styling Products
Pomades
Clays
Anhydrous Masks
Chemical Treatments
Bars

Color Cosmetics

Lipsticks
Pencils
Anhydrous Formulas
Foundations
Colored Emulsions
Pressed Powders
Lip Balms
Make-up

Chemistry & Functionality

Rapid Phase Transition & Thermal Dynamics

Mechanism:

Kester Wax K-24’s low melting point (25°C) is a direct result of its specific molecular structure. The short alkyl chains and ester linkage contribute to weak intermolecular forces, facilitating a rapid transition from a crystalline solid to a liquid state upon minimal heat input (skin contact).
This rapid phase change involves the absorption of latent heat, which can manifest as a subtle cooling sensation. This is a transient endothermic process.

Formula Effect:

This property is crucial for delivering an immediate “slip” effect in formulations. The instant liquefaction provides a smooth, gliding sensation upon application.
The cooling effect, while subtle, can enhance the sensory profile of products, particularly in warm climates or for products designed for soothing applications.
This rapid phase transition allows for the product to be easily workable during manufacturing.

Emolliency & Sensory Modulation

Mechanism:

As an emollient, Kester Wax K-24 forms a thin, nonocclusive film on the skin’s surface. This film lubricates the stratum corneum, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and enhancing skin hydration.
The “dry, powdery” feel arises from the specific arrangement of the monoester molecules on the skin. This arrangement minimizes the perception of oiliness while maintaining lubricity.

Formula Effect:

This characteristic allows formulators to create products with a luxurious, non-greasy texture, appealing to consumers who prefer lightweight formulations.
It […]

Advanced Crystallization Control In Personal Care Formulations

What Is A Plasticizer?

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Plasticizers are solid form chemistries designed to reduce crystallization, manage consistency, texture and stability in both anhydrous and emulsion formulations.

Products

Kester Wax K-82P

Kester Wax K-60P

Kester Wax K-70P

Formulas

The Benefits Of Using A Plasticizer In Personal Care

Suppress Crystallization
Creates Creamy Texture
Supports Thermal Stability
Inhibits Migration
Enhances Dispersions
Stops Bloom and Syneresis

Objectives

The objective of this article is to summarize the benefits of Kester Wax K-70P, a new plasticizer from Koster Keunen, Inc. In particular, the crystallization and rheological properties were investigated and correlated with the desired properties of an efficient plasticizer.

Introduction

Plasticizers are additives for increasing the flexibility and ease of processing. The presence of a plasticizer typically causes a reduction in the cohesive intermolecular forces along the wax molecules, enabling these chains to move more freely relative to one another, resulting in the reduction of stiffness of the wax matrix¹.

Polyesters are among the commonly used plasticizers due to their favorable physical interactions with high molecular weight molecules that are typical constituents of waxes. This physical interaction between the wax and plasticizer molecules causes these materials to form a homogenous physical unit, meaning they do not separate.

The two main categories of plasticizers are primary and secondary. The former interacts with the wax molecules, while the latter increases the effectiveness of a primary plasticizer2. There are two types of plasticization with primary plasticizers: internal and external. Internal plasticization involves the chemical alteration of the wax molecule or its building blocks (prior to synthesizing the wax molecule). The second type of plasticization is external. External plasticization is the focus of this study. It is important to note that the plasticizer interacts with the wax physically, although hydrogen bonding and Van der Waals forces often play a role. Polyester plasticizers are favored across various industries and applications due to their exceptional flexibility.

Materials, Methods, and Instrumentation

Wax samples were prepared from Koster Keunen, Inc. commercial grade wax products with 5% w/w of plasticizer unless listed otherwise. Crystallization studies were carried out using an Olympus CH microscope using polarized light. Images were captured using a Moticam 3 3.0 MP camera integrated with the microscope. Microscope slides and cover glasses were purchased from Fisher Scientific and were electrically heated before cooling to ambient temperature for inspecting the crystallization process and the resulting crystalline particles.

Dynamic stress sweep rheology studies were conducted at the University of Connecticut, Institute of Materials Science Laboratory³. A Discovery HR20 rheometer (DHR20, TA) was employed utilizing a serrated Peltier plate fixture. The test configuration featured a modified cross-hatched 40 mm cone plate. Samples were loaded and zero gap determination was performed at the designated test temperature. A Peltier temperature control system connected to a recirculating water bath maintained the system at the required temperature throughout the tests. Yield stress measurements were performed […]

Gel Charts

Mastering Oleogels: From Gel Formation to Formulation Efficiency

Gels are remarkable semi-solid materials that balance solid and liquid components in a unique harmony. Their solid component, known as the gelator, creates a network of aggregates that immobilizes the liquid, resulting in a soft, solid-like texture. For cosmetic scientists, oleogels—gels where the liquid medium is oil-based—are particularly compelling. They combine wax, oil, and specific processing techniques to create a diverse range of textures and consistencies.

What Makes a Successful Oleogel?

Formulating a stable, effective oleogel hinges on three critical factors:

Wax Concentration: The proportion of gelator to liquid.
Type of Wax: Different waxes create different gel structures.
Liquid Medium: The oil or liquid must be compatible with the wax for effective gelation.

Compatibility between these elements is vital to achieving the desired gel structure.

The Role of Gel Charts in Oleogel Formulation

To streamline the formulation process, Koster Keunen scientists developed a gel chart—a visual guide for predicting gel properties based on wax type and concentration. This chart allows formulators to select their ingredients more efficiently, reducing trial-and-error in the lab.

How to Read a Gel Chart

The y-axis of the gel chart measures penetration value, a key indicator of the gel’s hardness or flowability. Penetration values are reported in decimillimeters (dmm), with higher values indicating softer, more fluid gels. Here’s a breakdown:

15-40 dmm: Firm, waxy structures (e.g., sticks or hard balms).
40-70 dmm: Moderately hard, semi-solid products (e.g., push-up tubes or harder pot products).
70-150 dmm: Soft, flowable gels (e.g., lotions or light creams).
150+ dmm: Highly fluid, pourable gels (e.g., oil serums).

Why Use a Gel Chart?

By referencing a gel chart, you can:

Save Time: Skip extensive lab testing by narrowing down the ideal wax concentration for your target gel structure.
Optimize Performance: Achieve consistent product properties by selecting the right wax and oil combination.
Enhance Understanding: Gain insights into the relationship between wax concentration and gel firmness.

For example, if you’re formulating a push-up deodorant, you can consult the chart to find the wax concentration that produces penetration values in the 40-70 dmm range. This ensures the product holds its shape while remaining easy to apply.

Empowering Cosmetic Scientists

Oleogels offer unmatched versatility in the world of cosmetics, from firm balms to silky serums. With tools like gel charts, cosmetic scientists can harness the science of gels to innovate more effectively. Whether you’re aiming for a luxuriously soft feel or a firm, functional structure, gel charts bring clarity to the complex world of oleogel formulation, helping you get it right the first time.

Gel Charts

Natural Waxes

Beeswax

Candelilla Wax

Rice Bran Wax x #224P

Kester Waxes

Other Waxes

Plasticizers Explained

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Natural Lip Balm Base Wax #852

Plasticizers are versatile ingredients that enhance formulation consistency, stability, and texture, especially in high wax content formulas. They can resolve issues like graininess from internal migration, prevent “seeding” in butter-rich formulas, and improve thermal stability without affecting texture.

Plasticizers also reduce stabiltiy issues, offer better batch control from scale-up to production, support liquid-to-wax ratios, and ensure compatibility in complex systems

Suppress Crystallization

Fixes Graininess

Creates Creamy Textures

Supports Color Distribution

Support Thermal Stability

Stops Bloom & Syneresis

Request A Sample

To request a wax sample please click HERE.

Request Information

To obtain further details on this program, use information in your marketing story, or ask other questions, email us HERE.

Plasticizers provide solutions for complex formulation challenges and are valuable development tools for improving a wide range of systems.

Kester Wax K-60P

Wax# 484B
INCI: Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Typical Usage Level: 1-15%
Melt Point Range: 50.0 °C – 70.0 °C

PROS:

Suppresses Crystallization
Improves Cushion
Adds Creamy Texture
Reduces Slip
May Add Thickening
Boosts Emulsion Feel & Gloss
Natural Product

CONS:

5%> Emulsions Can Increase Tack
Higher Usage Required
Not Globally Compliant
Compatibility Challenges

Kester Wax K-82P

Wax#154S
INCI: C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate (or) Synthetic Beeswax
Typical Usage Level: 1-15%
Melt Point Range: 70 °C – 85.0 °C

PROS:

Strong Crystallization Suppression
Increases Melt Point
Aids Thermal Stability
Zero Structure
Supports Color & SPF Distribution
Globally Compliant
Low Usage Level

CONS:

50% Synthetic
Petrochemical Derived

NEW Kester K-70P, a natural polymer derived from Rice Wax, fills the critical gap for chemists, delivering optimal performance when Kester K-60P or Kester K-82P may not meet specific formulation parameters.

Kester Wax K-70P

Wax# 10092
INCI: C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate (natural)
Melt Point Range: 65 °C – 75.0 °C (est)

PROS:

Suppresses Crystallization
Increases Melt Point
Aids in Thermal Stability
Better Color Distribution
Natural & Globally Compliant