Mastering Oleogels: From Gel Formation to Formulation Efficiency
Gels are remarkable semi-solid materials that balance solid and liquid components in a unique harmony. Their solid component, known as the gelator, creates a network of aggregates that immobilizes the liquid, resulting in a soft, solid-like texture. For cosmetic scientists, oleogels—gels where the liquid medium is oil-based—are particularly compelling. They combine wax, oil, and specific processing techniques to create a diverse range of textures and consistencies.
What Makes a Successful Oleogel?
Formulating a stable, effective oleogel hinges on three critical factors:
- Wax Concentration: The proportion of gelator to liquid.
- Type of Wax: Different waxes create different gel structures.
- Liquid Medium: The oil or liquid must be compatible with the wax for effective gelation.
Compatibility between these elements is vital to achieving the desired gel structure.
The Role of Gel Charts in Oleogel Formulation
To streamline the formulation process, Koster Keunen scientists developed a gel chart—a visual guide for predicting gel properties based on wax type and concentration. This chart allows formulators to select their ingredients more efficiently, reducing trial-and-error in the lab.
How to Read a Gel Chart
The y-axis of the gel chart measures penetration value, a key indicator of the gel’s hardness or flowability. Penetration values are reported in decimillimeters (dmm), with higher values indicating softer, more fluid gels. Here’s a breakdown:
- 15-40 dmm: Firm, waxy structures (e.g., sticks or hard balms).
- 40-70 dmm: Moderately hard, semi-solid products (e.g., push-up tubes or harder pot products).
- 70-150 dmm: Soft, flowable gels (e.g., lotions or light creams).
- 150+ dmm: Highly fluid, pourable gels (e.g., oil serums).
Why Use a Gel Chart?
By referencing a gel chart, you can:
- Save Time: Skip extensive lab testing by narrowing down the ideal wax concentration for your target gel structure.
- Optimize Performance: Achieve consistent product properties by selecting the right wax and oil combination.
- Enhance Understanding: Gain insights into the relationship between wax concentration and gel firmness.
For example, if you’re formulating a push-up deodorant, you can consult the chart to find the wax concentration that produces penetration values in the 40-70 dmm range. This ensures the product holds its shape while remaining easy to apply.
Empowering Cosmetic Scientists
Oleogels offer unmatched versatility in the world of cosmetics, from firm balms to silky serums. With tools like gel charts, cosmetic scientists can harness the science of gels to innovate more effectively. Whether you’re aiming for a luxuriously soft feel or a firm, functional structure, gel charts bring clarity to the complex world of oleogel formulation, helping you get it right the first time.
